sustainable fashion

Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative now covers 11 countries –

The two new member associations are the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) from India and ECAHT from Egypt. As a result, STTI now brings together apparel industry associations from 11 countries, namely Indonesia, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Myanmar, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Turkey, Egypt and Morocco.
Uniting behind the common goal of improving commercial compliance, the Initiative has published its white paper in September 2021. Now, driven by the push for application in the industry the global working group formally started talks with three major, globally operating organisations representing brands and retailers and that have the improvement of purchasing practices high on their agendas. These are the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), ACT and the Common Framework for Responsible Purchasing Practices (CFfRPP).
“It is STTI’s goal to make plans of action with these organisations on commercial compliance, or in other words, agree on practical steps to improve purchasing practices between the members of the organisation and the members of STTI. The necessity for this remains without question,” the initiative said in a statement. Participants questioned “how we would contribute to the fairness of the industry if we don’t have fair purchasing practices to begin with.”
“Out of this need it became clear that these groups aim at tangible improvements and prioritise the topic already. The STTI is ensuring that manufacturers globally are participating on an equal level and that their voice is an integral part of this work. Additionally, this reduces the ever-present danger of a fragmented and uncoordinated approach in the apparel and textile industry,” STTI added.
The coming year will see intensive work on impactful actions to improve purchasing practices. STTI’s growth, its work with brands and retailers and the organisations that represent them and its prominent role in the OECD's Annual Forum (on due diligence in the garment and footwear sector) reflects the initiative’s optimism that it is on the right track.
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Deepika Padukone Is Busy Setting New Fashion Rules In A Denim On Denim Athleisure Look – NDTV

Nobody sets trends better than Deepika Padukone in Bollywood
As we grow closer into deep diving into the world of Gehraiyaan, we’re convinced that there is nothing that Deepika cannot do. We have seen it with her acting and we have now also seen with her fashion choices for her movie promotions. Bodysuits are clearly the most ‘it’ fashion forward clothing piece of the season and we’re not surprised why Bollywood is seemingly jumping right onto this style bandwagon. Deepika Padukone makes a statement in her double denim outfit for the promotions of her film in her Adidas x Ivy Park high cut bodysuit and trackpant. She gives her athleisure outfit a chic high fashion twist with white Christian Louboutin heels. Her hair is styled to a low bun and a pop of coral on her lip to bind her athleisure look for an off duty look which is on another level of style. Monochrome styles and Deepika just always go hand in hand!
Also Read: Deepika Padukone In A Printed Bodycon Midi Dress Can’t Help But Catch Our Eyes
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Why are bodysuits so popular? They’re flattering, versatile and look good on every occasion. No wonder she picked yet another bodysuit, this time a dark maroon cutout pick which she wore with Levi’s jeans. She endorses Levi’s jeans and kept her look comfy chic in her own way until which she followed suit for her athleisure look too, where she is a brand ambassador for Adidas as well.
Also Read: Deepika Padukone Ends The Week On A Monochrome Note In An All-White Outfit
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After an impressive series of dresses, her looks paired with pants left us equally blown away. There’s no excuse she misses to don a monochrome look and she wasn’t going to miss it this time either. Dressed in a Victoria Beckham outfit from top to bottom, she was a vision in white for the promotions. Oh and if your thought we were the only ones blown away, then you may be surprised to know Victoria Beckham too was one of them.
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We’ve got to admit that we love her in all that she does and wears!
Also Read: When You’ve Got Genes And Jeans Like Deepika Padukone’s, Who Needs Any Dresses?

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Kapok and Fashion Clinic team up for a five-month bespoke alteration service – Time Out

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The collaboration aims to reduce fashion waste by transforming your most beloved garments
Set out to help “resuscitate dead stock and pre-loved clothing”, Fashion Clinic specialises in repairing, reshaping, and redesigning preloved garments and jewellery. Now partnering with lifestyle store Kapok for a bespoke alteration service known as Wardrobe Awakening, the five-month project aims to change the mentality of ‘buy cheap, discard easy’ in the modern era of fast fashion and highlight the importance of wardrobe care.
“The fashion industry is sick. Fast Fashion is going so fast that it generates 52 collections per year. That’s insane!” says Kay Wong, founder of Fashion Clinic. “These low-cost fashions enable consumers to buy cheap, wear cheap and throw away without second thoughts. This is not sustainable, not just in an environmental sense.”
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Enlisting the help of former garment factory worker Kam Lan as a core member of their collective, a team of specialists will offer stylish and meaningful transformations (Fashion pieces by Kay Wong, Una Lo and Kam Lan from Fashion Clinic; Embroidery by Matt Hui from YLYstudio; Millinery by Phoebe from Atelier PHYL; and Jewellery by Savia Chan from Atelier Hon’ne) to extend the lifespan of customers’ items by destructing and reconstructing to create a wide range of tailor-made items.
To aid their process, Fashion Clinic has even imported a special needle punching machine with 3,000 needles that can essentially destroy fabric fibres and merge individual fabrics into a unique piece of textile. Stitch by stitch, the alteration service helps preserve garments that may hold sentimental value and elevate their items into something completely new – without adding to the landfills.
The time-limited pop-up is open from now until May 20 (Tuesday to Sunday 11am-7pm) at Kapok’s Wan Chai location on 5 St Francis Yard. No reservation is required for general repairs, but you can get in touch with them via if you are looking for made-to-measure redesigning services. 
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AFRY : to design sustainable textile fibre biofactory for Altri in Spain –

Altri has awarded AFRY engineering, site selection and integrated environmental authorization services assignment for a greenfield textile fiber factory in Spain. In addition, AFRY will support Altri to conceive, create and implement foundations for Industry 4.0 technologies in this new plant.
The demand for sustainable textile fibres is growing quickly globally. To support this growth, the Portuguese pulp producer Altri has become the industrial partner to public-private consortium Impulsa (Society for the Development of Strategic Projects of Galicia) as the lead investor and technologist to study the wood-based textile fibers biofactory exclusively. This biofactory will use Galician wood as the primary raw material together with recycled remains from the textile industry to produce dissolving pulp and Lyocell fibre. The plant will be designed based on the best available techniques (BAT), best environmental practices, as well as cutting-edge proven technologies and the production will be fossil-fuel-free. The project is expected to benefit from the “Next Generation EU” program.
Altri is responsible for designing and developing the biofactory project to transform wood into a textile fiber, evaluating site locations and exploring alliances with the entire value chain. Altri has assigned AFRY to support the project development and planned project implementation.
The industrial biorefinery to be built from scratch will be able to provide the textile cluster of the Iberian peninsula with sustainable cellulosic fibers, contributing to the strengthening of the circular economy and decarbonisation of an important economic sector such as the textile sector.
AFRY has been involved in the project development from the very early stages. AFRY supported the project concept idea initially developed by Altri and led the preliminary feasibility study. A multi-disciplinary team of AFRY’s engineering and consulting experts is currently supporting Altri on the site selection activities, engineering and permitting processes.
“We are proud to be part of this strategic project in Spain with the target to take big steps towards sustainable fashion in Spain and Europe. Increased use of wood-based fibres in the textile industry with a plan to combine it with recycled textile fibres will open several new opportunities in this sector. Already in the early planning phase of the project, we see great future opportunities in supporting Altri’s digital strategy development,” says Nicholas Oksanen, EVP and Head of Division Process Industries at AFRY.

For further information, please contact:

Fernando Correa, Head of Process Industries Spain
Tel. +34 616 447 455
Nicholas Oksanen, Executive Vice President, Head of Division Process Industries
Tel. +358 10 33 22294

Afry AB published this content on 09 February 2022 and is solely responsible for the information contained therein. Distributed by Public, unedited and unaltered, on 09 February 2022 08:08:08 UTC.


FTC Fines Fashion Company $4.2 Million for Blocking Negative Customer Reviews – JD Supra

Arent Fox
Fashion Nova, LLC, is a California-based "fast fashion" retailer that describes itself as "the world’s leading quick-to-market apparel and lifestyle brand." The company operates an e-commerce platform, as well as a handful of brick-and-mortar locations, and has a major presence in social media, including over 25 million followers and partnerships with celebrities like Cardi B, Megan Thee Stallion, Justin Bieber, and Kendall Jenner.
In its allegations against Fashion Nova, the FTC alleges that Fashion Nova has been misleading its customers in violation of Section 5 of the U.S. FTC Act by blocking negative customer reviews of its products. Specifically, a recent press release by the FTC states that the retailer "misrepresented that the product reviews on its website reflected the views of all purchasers who submitted reviews, when in fact it suppressed reviews with ratings lower than four stars out of five."
In the complaint, the FTC calls out Fashion Nova for their comment review framework. Specifically, Fashion Nova used a third-party online review system that automatically posted four-and-five star reviews to the website, but held lower-starred reviews for the company’s approval. However, the company never approved nor posted the hundreds of thousands of lower-starred reviews. To settle the allegations, Fashion Nova has agreed to pay a little over $4 million and will be forced to post all reviews of products currently being sold on its website. This is not Fashion Nova’s first run-in with the FTC. In April 2020, it had to pay $9.3 million for failing to ship products in a timely manner and illegally issuing gift cards in place of refunds.
In addition to the settlement with Fashion Nova, the FTC also recently released guidance about customer review management that online retailers should carefully consider. According to the "Soliciting and Paying for Online Reviews" guidance, retailers are encouraged to carefully review the processes by which reviews are collected and posted. While collecting reviews, companies should not prevent, discourage, or intimidate people from submitting negative reviews. Companies should also not only ask for reviews from people who will leave positive ones. Moreover, the FTC encourages companies to have "reasonable processes in place to verify that reviews are genuine and not fake, deceptive, or otherwise manipulated" and to treat positive and negative reviews equally. Finally, for reviewing publications, the FTC staff encourages companies to publish all reviews and not to display reviews in a misleading way.  
Companies should provide notice to their digital marketing and website management teams. Tampering with reviews is prohibited by the FTC and may be viewed as an unfair or deceptive trade practice in violation of the FTC Act. Retailers are encouraged to review their existing practices to ensure compliance.
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Race to reduce Singapore F1's carbon footprint a good start, but experts are mixed on its impact – CNA

SINGAPORE: From replacing fossil fuels with more sustainable alternatives to going electric where possible, it seems like the Singapore Formula 1 Grand Prix is kicking climate action into higher gear.
When the night race returns to the streets of Marina Bay in September – after a two-year hiatus due to the pandemic – a full sustainability audit will also be conducted, which could see data such as the amount of carbon emissions and waste generated by the event being measured and reported for the first time.
The Singapore Tourism Board (STB) and race organiser Singapore GP said the audit will help to guide the development of other green initiatives that will be implemented over the next seven years under a renewed contract for Singapore to host the Formula 1 Grand Prix.
Starting this year, two parties will work together to reduce the carbon footprint of the Singapore race.
Responding to CNA’s queries, a spokesperson from Singapore GP said that the existing track lighting will be replaced with more energy-efficient LED lights from 2023, and that it will switch to electric or hybrid support vehicles where applicable.
The hope is to make the entire event one of the most environmentally sustainable street circuits in the F1 calendar, tying in with the championship’s goal of becoming net-zero by 2030.
However, while the sustainability audit and green initiatives are a step in the right direction, experts CNA spoke to were mixed on whether the efforts would be enough to reduce the gas-guzzling sport’s carbon footprint.
An F1 report published in 2019 estimated that more than 256,000 tons of carbon emissions are generated each season, including direct and indirect emissions. That is roughly the equivalent of emissions produced by 55,600 cars each year. 
Out of this, 45 per cent comes from air, sea and road transport required logistically to put on each race, with a further 27.7 per cent generated from the transport of personnel, promoters and partners.
As the major sporting event takes place all over the world, it is not possible to eliminate emissions generated by logistics and transport completely, said Professor Vish S Viswanathan, director of the Centre for Business Sustainability at Nanyang Technological University (NTU).
“To reduce emissions, (the organisers) could possibly consider and evaluate a modal shift for transport, meaning that instead of transporting car-related items by air, they can move towards less-carbon intensive modes of transport such as ocean freight,” he said.
But with ocean freight being slower than air transport, Prof Viswanathan said this could pose a logistical and scheduling challenge for organisers, especially with the races taking place in quick succession and held all over the world.
“This means that either there have to be custom-built vessels that complete the shipment of the items from one location to another very quickly, or there have to be duplicates of the cars and other related assets that are deployed only at alternative locations such as every second or third race venue,” he said, adding that this will provide a greater lead time for transport.
“Having multiple sets of equipment means the manufacturing carbon footprint might go up a little bit so that’s a trade-off they will have to make but it’s an area where they can actually think of solutions and work on it,” he added.
Sustainability consultant K Sadashiv, who is a board director at sustainability non-profit Forum for the Future, said sourcing locally could also help to lower the number of items that need to be transported from overseas, further reducing emissions.
As part of its sustainability plans, F1 also announced that it would move towards sustainable fuels.
To do this, the championship is currently developing its own 100 per cent “sustainable” fuel, using components that come from either a carbon capture scheme, municipal waste or non-food biomass. It is currently in talks with companies about supplying fuel for the races, with an eye towards scaling up production for mainstream public use. 
A working group, which includes power unit manufacturers and fuel suppliers, has also been established to form F1’s new engine regulations for 2025 that will include mandating a ”fully sustainable” fuel source.
In the meantime, new regulations – which kick in this year – will force the F1 teams to freeze the development of engines, in a bid to reduce cost and reach carbon neutrality.
Despite these efforts, some including world champion Lewis Hamilton and Aston Martin driver Sebastian Vettel have criticised the sport’s green push for not moving fast enough or being environmentally relevant.
Echoing their sentiments, Associate Professor of Science, Technology and Society Winston Chow from the Singapore Management University (SMU) said while using ethanol or biofuels is a start, such fuels still emit greenhouse gases and require elements of carbon capture technology to be net-zero.
If the goal is to advance the use of cleaner energy sources in general transportation, technology related to electric vehicles would be more relevant in the years to come as more countries switch from gasoline or diesel cars to electric vehicles, said Assoc Prof Chow.
Ultimately, experts agreed that the commitment from F1, as well as measures to be implemented by SGP and STB, is “a start” and one that is aligned with Singapore’s national sustainability plan.
By linking local tourism to the green economy, it also ensures that any action would not be dropped after one or two years, said Assoc Prof Chow.
However, what is equally crucial is getting attendees to buy in on environmental sustainability, said Dr Nanthinee Jevanandam, director of sustainability think-tank Earthys.
“The nature of events is that they tend to be quite indulgent and often generate large amounts of unnecessary waste, like leftover gift bags for attendees or materials used for the event set up,” said Dr Jevanandam.
“So when organisers choose to go green and decide to do away with unnecessary items or opt for more sustainable options, organisers are concerned that event attendees may not appreciate this, which could affect their event experience.
“But the flip side of this is that you also need the attendees to embrace going green in order for the event to be successful, so they actually play a very important role in the event’s push towards sustainability,” she added.
“At the end of the day, we can’t say we want to be 100 per cent green and just say no to everything, that’s just not the direction to go,” said Dr Jevanandam.
“It’s about balance, so it’s about doing the things that benefits the country but in a much more sustainable fashion.”
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Queen Elizabeth's Royal Style: Her Most Iconic Fashion Looks of All Time – Brides

87 years of expert advice and inspiration, for every couple.
Nicole Briese has worked as a fashion and lifestyle editor for more than 10 years. She has contributed to Brides since 2019.
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It’s official: Queen Elizabeth II has been a reigning monarch for 70 years! This Sunday, February 6, marked the anniversary of her majesty’s ascension to the throne, making her the first royal in England’s history to celebrate a Platinum Jubilee. In her seven decades as a ruler, she has not only served as the country’s head of state, but as a fashion icon, too, inspiring, surprising, and delighting us with her royal style, which has evolved right alongside the many phases of her storied reign.
In fact, she’s worked with no less than three royal couturiers in her time, with Norman Hartnell designs comprising much of her early wardrobe, Hardy Amies creating many of her ensembles from the ’50s to the ’90s, and Angela Kelly taking over as her colorful dressmaker in 2002. From her historic coronation gown to the lime green getup she went viral for in 2018, we’ve compiled a list of Queen Elizabeth’s best, most iconic fashion looks of all time.
Hulton-Deutsche Collection Corbis / Getty Images
Even as a young debutante, then-Princess Elizabeth was plenty elegant, dressing in simple-yet-chic silhouettes with luxe-looking fabrics, as seen in this 1946 photo with her sister, Princess Margaret.
Hulton Archive / Getty Images
The queen was also using fashion as a means of expression years before she ever wore the crown. The gown she wore for her wedding to Prince Philip on November 20, 1947, was rife with meaning. According to the Royal Collection Trust, the Norman Hartnell masterpiece, which featured a 15-foot train with a breathtaking star pattern inspired by Botticelli’s “Primavera” Renaissance painting, was symbolic of a period of growth and rebirth for England following World War II.
It also featured 10,000 seed pearls, plenty of crystals, and an ivory silk fabric that the then-princess reportedly collected coupons to pay for, as Britain was still subject to rationing at the time.  For her something borrowed, she had the Queen Mary Fringe tiara, which once belonged to her grandmother.
Hulton Royals Collection / Getty Images
The royal made quite an appearance on the Mediterranean island of Malta in a pale purple frock with a furry stole.
Central Press / Getty Images
The then-princess went for top style honors while visiting Ottawa, Canada, in 1951 in this chic pink gown, which featured a lace floral pattern throughout. She set off the look with the Nizam of Hyderabad tiara and the Greville ruby and diamond necklace.
The Print Collector / Getty Images
Norman Hartnell was also behind another huge fashion milestone in Queen Elizabeth’s life: her coronation gown. Accepted by the royal as the eighth of nine (yes, nine!) designs that the British couturier made for the occasion, it was a masterpiece that took the better part of a year to complete. And considering that it featured floral emblems of both the UK and other states within the Commonwealth of Nations—including the English Tudor rose, a Welsh leek, a Scottish thistle, an Irish shamrock, a Canadian maple leaf, an Australian wattle flower, and the fern of New Zealand—it was no wonder.
Made of silk, the dress reportedly required the expertise of no less than six embroiderers. Naturally, such a work of art was far too precious to wear but once—the queen pulled a Kate Middleton and wore it again multiple times, including to several speeches to the Parliaments in 1954 and another in Canada in 1957.  
Hulton Collective / Getty Images
The newly crowned monarch was radiant while leaving a banquet in Australia in 1954, no doubt in part due to this extravagant floral gown.
Hulton Royals Collection
The lacy peach number with a plunging V-neck that the queen wore down under proved she could pull off pastel with the best of ‘em.
Keystone / Hulton Archive / Getty Images
This dress was made to turn heads—literally. Designed by Norman Hartnell to complement the French nation Queen Elizabeth was touring at the time and put the spotlight on her, it featured several motifs tying back to the country, including its flower and bee detailing (the emblem of Napoleon). Embroidered in gold and silver glass, gold beads, and pearls, the gown was nothing short of extravagant, and showcased a large bow at the back for good measure.
Hulton Archive / Getty Images
The British ruler was also a vision in green while visiting with France’s first lady at the time, Germaine Coty. Her outfit of choice featured a full ballgown skirt and delicate beading across the bodice.
Keystone / Hulton Archive / Getty Images
A ball was held in honor of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip at the end of their 1957 state visit to America, and the guest of honor looked every bit the royal in the jaw-dropping tulle and floral patterned gown she wore for the occasion.
Bettman / Getty Images
Talk about a moment in fashion history! Both Jackie Kennedy and Queen Elizabeth looked lovely in their respective shades of blue while the American first lady and her husband, John F. Kennedy, were visiting England in 1968.
While there were rumblings that Jackie wasn’t exactly wowed with the queen’s manner of dress (photographer Cecil Barton reportedly claimed in Raising Royalty: 1,000 Years of Royal Parenting that “Jackie was unimpressed with the palace furnishings and the Queen’s comparatively old-fashioned wardrobe and hairstyle), we find her royal blue ballgown quite enchanting, if not quite as modern as Jackie’s Chez Ninon cut. The buzzed-about moment was also depicted in an episode of The Crown.
Hulton Archive / Getty Images
For her Parliament speech in 1966, the queen donned the same Norman Hartnell peau de soie gown that she had reportedly previously worn twice: once to honor former Italian president Giovanni Gronchi at a state dinner at the British Embassy in 1961 and again to the premiere of Lawrence of Arabia in December of 1962. Only this time, she wore it with the Imperial State Crown.
Featuring beaded embroidery that spanned from the bustline halfway down the skirt, the dress was certainly one to remember; Years later, her granddaughter Princess Beatrice would walk down the aisle in the same piece (albeit an updated version of it) for her wedding to Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi.  
Hulton Royals Collection / Getty Images
The queen was all smiles while making a state visit to Austria with daughter Princess Anne. She wore a simple-yet-stunning A-line gown as crafted by Hardy Amies that was reflective of the fashion at the time.
Hulton Archive / Getty Images
Showing off a bit of flair, the queen posed for her Silver Jubilee portrait while wearing a white-and-gold frock with a zig-zag pattern, along with her royal cape and crown.
Hulton Archive/Getty Images
A very special 25th anniversary (better known in England as a Silver Jubilee) requires a very special frock, and that’s exactly what Queen Elizabeth turned up in for her celebrations. According to the Royal Trust Collection, Hardy Amies was behind this peachy-pink getup, which was comprised of pink silk and chiffon with a matching Simone Mirman hat.
Terry Fincher / Getty Images
The queen didn’t need to wear white to stand out from the royal balcony on the day her son famously wed his late ex-wife, Princess Diana. Her piercing turquoise gown, which she wore with a brooch and white pearls and gloves, was hard to miss.

Tim Graham / Getty Images
Queen Elizabeth went for bold while visiting San Francisco in March 1983, toasting to the Reagans at a banquet for which she donned a lavish pearl-and-diamond tiara and a cream-colored gown with voluminous ruffled sleeves.  
Tim Graham / Getty Images
The queen cleverly tipped her hat to the sunshine state in 1983, when she accompanied First Lady Nancy Reagan to a Star’s Concert in California bedecked in a Hardy Amies creation. The gown featured the state’s flower of orange poppies embroidered on the top and a flowing white skirt at the base.
Tim Graham / Getty Images
If the ‘90s were wrong as far as fashion is concerned, we don’t want to be right—especially after catching a glimpse of the utterly mesmerizing Pepto Bismol pink frock the queen arrived for a banquet in Hungary in.
Tim Graham / Getty Images
If you ask us, no shade has ever suited Queen E. quite so well as the icy blue beaded Stewart Parvin number she was photographed in while attending a dinner at the Governor-General King’s Residence in Jamaica. The sparkling tiara atop her head only served to emphasize its detailing.
Tim Graham / Getty Images
We couldn’t take our eyes off the queen in November 2006, when she waltzed into the House of Lords for the State Opening of Parliament in a sparkly white body-skimming column gown, a fur stole, and a tiara.
Dan Kitwood / Getty Images
For grandson Prince William’s wedding to the Duchess of Cambridge, the British icon opted for a springy yellow dress from royal dressmaker Angela Kelly along with a matching topper, the latter of which featured handmade silk roses. Never one to shy away from symbolism, we’ve no doubt that the queen fully intended to evoke the warmth, happiness, and sunshine that is often associated with the color with her choice of wardrobe.
John Stillwell / WPA-Pool / Getty Images
The fashionable royal struck sartorial gold with the peach-and-crystal ensemble she sported to the 2012 London Olympics opening ceremony, and for good reason: it took dressmakers months to make two of the same gown, one of which was worn by her majesty, the other, a stunt double who appeared to jump out of a helicopter for a skit with Daniel Craig. “Even [the seamstresses] didn’t know why two dresses were required for the same event,” Angela Kelly later wrote in her book, Dressing The Queen: The Jubilee Wardrobe.
Pool / Max Murphy / Getty Images
Queen Elizabeth chose yet another cheery hue at the nuptials of her younger grandson, Prince Harry, to Meghan Markle: lime green. Dolled up in head-to-toe Stewart Parvin, she added a few contrasting pops of color in the form of a purple plume on her Angela Kelly hat and her stark white gloves. According to color consultant June McLeod, who spoke to Good Housekeeping at the time of the affair, the shade was a respectful one. “Green is the color of growth and rebirth,” she told the outlet. “A person who wears green is the regulator and open-hearted. Green is a highly significant color worn as a sign of respect and intention for the future.”
Jeff J. Mitchell / Getty Images
The queen shared many a giggle—and a fashion photo opp—with Meghan Markle in June 2018 when she took her new granddaughter-in-law on an outing to Chester. She wore an eye-popping Stewart Parvin number for the occasion, which, as Prince Edward’s wife Sophie Rhys Jones explained in a 2016 documentary, was likely entirely purposeful. “She needs to stand out for people to be able to say, “I saw the Queen,’” Rhys Jones said at the time
Joe Giddens / WPA Pool / Getty Images
For her big Platinum Jubilee kickoff, the monarch sported a demure shade of light blue (a hue that has been known to symbolize trust, loyalty, and stability) in the form of this crepe design by her royal dresser, Angela Kelly. Accenting the look was a sprinkling of white floral embroidery at the waist and a diamond Cartier brooch.

Chris Jackson / Getty Images
Queen Elizabeth debuted another Angela Kelly design for her official Platinum Jubilee portrait, paying homage to her late mother in the process with two ivy leaf clips that she had been gifted by the family matriarch.
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Sustainable fashion: From the red carpet to our wardrobes? – BBC News

By Alex Taylor
BBC Entertainment reporter

It's been a big few weeks for showbiz award ceremonies – and for many, the fashion glitz of the red carpet, from the Met Gala to the Emmys, is a huge part of the fun.
But increasingly it's the question of sustainability, not just designer labels, that's making the biggest fashion statement.
Just ask Northern Irish singer and presenter Hannah Peel, who turned heads at this month's Mercury Prize ceremony in an eco-friendly rainbow dress – based on the Pantone colour chart.
Peel told the BBC's Chi Chi Izundu that its designer Kitty Joseph made her outfit from eucalyptus trees, grown and harvested in the world's driest regions.
"There's no chemicals, it uses 90% less water than it would if it was another material. And it's got a beautiful flow to it," she said.
This year's London Fashion Week, which has just finished, has made "circularity" its buzzword. This concept is all about "designing out" waste, ensuring clothing can be remade again and again.
The week's schedule featured a screening of Fashionscapes: A Circular Economy – a documentary exploring whether the increased industry pledges around sustainability are anywhere close to being attainable.
At present, the fashion industry accounts for about 10% of global carbon emissions and almost 20% of waste water. It also uses up more energy than the aviation and shipping industries combined, according to United Nations Climate Change.
Sustainable fashion is a commitment to challenge this, calling for more durable clothes, produced in a more environmentally friendly way, plus an increased ability to reuse or recycle them wherever possible.
"Sustainable fashion is fashion within planetary limits," says Prof Kate Fletcher from the London College of Fashion's Centre for Sustainable Fashion.
This broadly means reducing:
The drive is important because "the fashion sector currently behaves as if the finite resources that enable the fashion production and consumption are somehow infinite and that issues of social justice and inclusion are bad for business", Prof Fletcher tells the BBC.
It explicitly rejects a culture of throwaway fashion that's been accelerated by the rise of online fast fashion retailers.
These companies, some of which pay social media influencers to promote and front their brands, can face criticism over claims of worker exploitation, and environmentally harmful working practices.
In May, research by the Royal Society for the Arts (RSA) looked at 10,000 items being sold by clothing websites Boohoo, Pretty Little Thing, Missguided and Asos.
The research stated that of 2,500 recently added items from each website, 49% were made of plastics such as polyester, acrylic, nylon and elastane.
The report's co-author Josie Warden said: "The sheer volume of clothing produced by these websites is shocking – we should see many of these items, which go for rock-bottom prices, as akin to other short-lived plastics. The nature of fast fashion trends means they are not designed to have long lives in our wardrobes."
According to the Clean Clothes campaign, in 2018 three out of five of our clothing purchases ended up on the landfill site.
The RSA is calling for the government to look at introducing a plastics tax on clothes imported into or produced in the UK.
Facing a climate of increased environmental awareness, being seen to go green is big business. A 2020 report on sustainability in fashion found 67% of shoppers now consider environmentally-friendly fabrics when choosing a brand.
Boohoo, for example, has published its Up Front strategy which sets an "ambitious" goal of all polyester and cotton being recycled or more sustainable by 2025. However, the RSA report said the company had a "mountain to climb" to meet this target.
It follows a host of similar eco-friendly commitments from major clothes retailers. H&M has promised 100% of its materials and products will be recycled or sustainably sourced by 2030. Mango has also pledged to sustainably source 50% by 2022.
The industry also grouped together to form the Global Fashion Agenda – with brands signing up to a number of 2020 sustainability goals, as well as the Circular Fashion Partnership, working to find green solutions to offset the impact of the pandemic.
But some warn these initiatives can sometimes be little more than "greenwashing" – cashing in on a marketing trend rather than a widespread business change.
BBC Scotland's Conscious Closet series outlines three red flags to look out for:
The BBC has contacted a number of major fashion labels, including Boohoo, Pretty Little Thing, Missguided and Oh Polly, asking them to comment on the suggestion that their sustainability goals could be seen as "greenwashing".
A more dramatic alternative, beyond recycling, is to completely rethink the fabrics used – as shown by Peel's Mercury Prize dress.
A spokesperson for its designer, Kitty Joseph, told the BBC the bespoke fitting was made from Tencel, a fabric made from eucalyptus trees in sustainably managed forests.
"Tencel's production process is closed loop, meaning more than 99% of the water and solvents used in the process are collected and reused. Meanwhile the bleaching of fibres is completely chlorine free," the label said.
A post shared by KITTY JOSEPH (@kitty_joseph)
But why should companies commit to such a change in outlook?
Dr Bernice Pan, CEO of the sustainable fashion label Deploy, says the pandemic, on top of the worsening environmental landscape, has intensified limits on resources and forced companies to rethink their long-term strategy.
"It can't just be about quantity and speed any more. And certainly just pumping out quantity isn't going to help companies grow" she says.
Pan believes the focus now needs to be on providing "quality, versatility, fashion and function for customers to produce maximum value".
Part of this involves making clothes that are reusable and multipurpose: "If you can give people a skirt that they can attach to another new top, and then there's another dress again. The concept shift needs to happen."
Vintage and second-hand clothing markets like Depop have also increased the lifespan of clothing.
The social shopping app blends the aesthetic and social aspects of Instagram with the buy-and-sell format of eBay. It was established in 2011 and now has more than 15 million users in 147 countries, enjoying a further boom in lockdown.
Depop is not the only app targeting this space – many second-hand clothes are traded on eBay, and Asos now has a Marketplace feature which allows users to resell used clothes.
A major barrier limiting the pace of sustainable fashion is its high price – for both consumers and fashion labels.
For instance, an off-the-peg version of Hannah's dress, available for pre-order, presently costs hundreds of pounds.
These prices are often driven by the increased cost of sustainable production techniques, says Pan. "A lot of the new technology is not fully commercialised because not enough brands buy it."
This is in part due to consumer demand. Fast fashion retailers such as Boohoo and Oh Polly were able to quickly react during the pandemic because, for them, the time between finishing a design to getting it made is often less than a week.
Boohoo has been one of the best performers in terms of online retail – it increased quarterly sales by 45% to £368m in the three months until the end of May 2020.
For this to change, Pan says "customers need to reject these irresponsible production models, then brands will have no choice but to change and adopt new practices".
"When we buy a £10 disposable t-shirt, the true cost to the environment and society is a lot more. So the question is, are we willing to pay for something disposable, even it means we have a toxic future to worry about, or are we happier to pay for fewer items that are made more environmental processes and fair labour treatment?"
The key to change, Pan believes, is government legislation to back up increased awareness amongst consumers. She cites the shifting attitude toward the tobacco industry in the name of public health as a template.
Pan says the pandemic, which has hit traditional retailers hard, can be the perfect reset point. The COP26 environmental summit in November, led by UK Prime Minister Boris Johnson, is set to discuss sustainable fashion.
Earlier this month Stockholm Fashion Week set a strong precedent by focusing on addressing sustainability, technology and creativity in the industry.
"Universally agreed upon are several issues plaguing the industry" wrote Forbes, from overproduction to misjudging consumer want and harmful working practices.
"The solutions to these issues will rely heavily on tech, legislation, financing, and collaboration across the industry, [one] notorious for not working together. It is also highly unregulated" it continued.
"The industry needs to make strides to change either from a moral obligation or demand imposed by the consumer".
Prof Fletcher agrees. "The future for fashion is exciting" she says. "It is also different to today – the fashion industry will take a smaller and less central role. Instead there will be many small and different fashion initiatives all working to provide for and express our fashion identities within ecological realities."
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