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LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
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What happens when you have a pandemic and a bored stay-at-home political reporter with extra time on his hands? LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane decided that he would pursue his second love and passion of cooking and now he’s sharing the results in his weekly Sunday column.
WASHINGTON – I get it: molecular gastronomy is a bit passé. Gimmicky, even. At first it was fun when chefs in fancy restaurants started serving potatoes that had been transformed into puffy clouds of foam, artful accompaniments to a beautifully marbled six-ounce wagyu beef filet.
But eventually, the novelty wore off. Or, perhaps, diners started boycotting expensive restaurants because their portions were small enough before it became trendy for their chefs to start puffing air into the food. A restaurant whose guests are still hungry after spending hundreds of dollars is a restaurant willfully jeopardizing its own longevity.
Here’s the thing, though. Imagine you’re hosting a dinner party, serving your guests a side salad dressed with a balsamic-olive oil mixture that’s been transformed into burgundy-colored pearls that might be mistaken for caviar or salmon roe. Well, I don’t know how to do that, but I can tell you how to make a blue cheese foam that will have them gagging. It’s a flex. It’s a serve. It’s a vibe.
I have become an evangelist for the use of molecular gastronomy in home cooking, and it’s easier than you might expect. The only equipment you really need is a whipping siphon, which you can purchase online for less than $100.
I wanted to show you how versatile this instrument is, so this week I used it for a salad, a main course, and a dessert. And because molecular gastronomy is considered a trend that crested around the mid-2010s, I decided to use elements of the cooking style to put a spin on classic steakhouse staples: A wedge salad with (you guessed it) blue cheese foam dressing; a bone-in ribeye with truffle potato foam; and chocolate foam mousse.
For the chocolate foam mousse, in a single-layer metal bowl, combine eight ounces chocolate (dark or milk, whatever you like to eat) with a half cup room temperature coffee, a half cup water, and three tablespoons granulated sugar. Fill a large metal bowl with ice and transfer to the freezer or refrigerator. Fill a straight-sided cooking vessel with an inch of water and bring to a simmer on medium heat. Put the bowl with your chocolate mixture in the simmering water and cook, stirring occasionally, until combined and smooth, about five minutes. Remove the bowl and place it inside your larger bowl with the ice, stirring continuously for about three minutes. Transfer to the whipping siphon, charge it once, shake vigorously and dispense into a champagne flute. Garnish with a mint leaf.
Kane’s cuisine: Going hog wild over this pork dinner perfect for summer
Kane’s cuisine: Going hog wild over this pork dinner perfect for summer
Kane’s cuisine: Honk if you’re horny. I mean proud!
Kane’s Cuisine: Indian butter chicken and sides (no cap!)
LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
Published
on
By
What happens when you have a pandemic and a bored stay-at-home political reporter with extra time on his hands? LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane decided that he would pursue his second love and passion of cooking and now he’s sharing the results in his weekly Sunday column.
WASHINGTON – I would never cast aspersions on barbecued pulled pork, no matter whether it’s prepared in the North Carolinian, South Carolinian, Texan, Tennessean, Missourian, Kentuckian, or Alabaman, or Korean fashion.
Over the years, human beings have devised so many ways to infuse deliciousness into fatty cuts of braised meat, and I say we should celebrate them all.
Speaking as a North Carolinian, if I may make a clumsy analogy, the prospect of my swearing allegiance to the state’s vinegar-based style of barbecue was about as likely as my becoming a devoted Carolina Panthers or Duke basketball fan (which is to say not likely at all.) Folks, it’s simply too hot to get all worked up over some silly football game or argue over which regional variation of barbecue is best.
Anyway, pork shoulder, however delightful when bathed in a tangy sauce or smoked and massaged with a dry spice rub, is more than capable of shining bright all on its own. In the spirit of open mindedness, I present for your humble consideration a pulled pork dish that is an alternative to barbecue (in all of its forms and iterations).
Apart from the simple fact that it’s delicious, making this dish will help you better understand and appreciate the pork shoulder’s flavor – an essential step toward becoming a master barbecue chef.
LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
Published
on
By
What happens when you have a pandemic and a bored stay-at-home political reporter with extra time on his hands? LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane decided that he would pursue his second love and passion of cooking and now he’s sharing the results in his weekly Sunday column.
WASHINGTON – What is it about Pride that makes me crave a big piece of meat? Just me?
Anyway, fellow size queens, here’s the tea: if you like your beef nice and thick, you’re not going to find it in a grocery store. There are a lot of things you can pick up in a Trader Joe’s – a bottle of wine, a muscle daddy – but a package of meaty short ribs is not among them.
You’re going to a butcher. While you’re there, pick up some pork shoulder, too, because that is also hard to find in a grocery store.
Generously season the meat (remember, one teaspoon of salt per pound.) Brown it on three sides (cooking on medium-high in vegetable oil for about two minutes per side), and then remove and set aside.
Without cleaning the pan, add one onion, diced, and three to six cloves of garlic, smashed, cooking for two minutes on medium and seasoning with salt and pepper. Toss in two stalks of celery and two carrots, chopped, along with a few sprigs of thyme and a couple of bay leaves, cooking for five minutes.
Cook two tablespoons tomato paste until it turns a deep brick-red color, about three minutes, stirring often to prevent burning. Add two cups dry red wine and two cups low sodium beef broth, seasoning again with salt and pepper. Emulsify with an immersion blender and strain. I forgot to strain the sauce, which is why it looks lumpy in the pictures. I would have fixed it, but I’m already late. Meeting friends at Annie’s Paramount Steakhouse tonight. (Yes, Brody, I know. Judge me if you must.)
Pour your sauce, along with your short ribs, into a pressure cooker and cook until they’re done. Serve with mashed potatoes and leeks that have been charred with a blowtorch and cooked in the microwave (6 minutes on high).
A note on the presentation: Edible flowers make anything look gourmet AF. I don’t know why they’re not used more often. I really don’t. And while you do not have to plate it like I did, you could. Yes, you. Really.
LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
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Editor’s Note: What happens when you have a pandemic and a bored stay-at-home political reporter with extra time on his hands? LA Blade staff writer Christopher Kane decided that he would pursue his second love and passion of cooking and now he’s sharing the results in his weekly Sunday column.
WASHINGTON – Endeavoring to cling to whatever youth I have left, all week I have been clumsily working the phrase “no cap” into texts with my friends, none of whom knew what it meant because they, like me, are all aging Millennials. Let’s just say I was kicked out of a few group chats and had to grovel to be allowed back in.
My attempt to cook a traditional Indian meal this week was less ham-handed, shall we say, than my effort to co-opt lingo used by the Gen Z crowd. Before we get into it, however, please allow me to preface this week’s column with a warning: I am not Indian, nor do I pretend to understand Indian cuisine beyond the extent possible for a white boy raised in the continental United States. So, the techniques and ingredients used to create the dishes described and pictured in this article came from an Indian cookbook and an Indian-owned spice market near my apartment in Washington, DC.
You may be surprised to learn these columns are not sponsored. (But seriously, call me. Especially you, Le Creuset.) So, I am not in the habit of adding affiliate links, but am choosing to make an exception in this case to share the resources that allowed me to make something that’s…perhaps not quite authentic, but I assure you, delicious nevertheless.
Reached for comment, my go-to source for Indian cooking was at a wedding in Kerala, understandably much more concerned with her beautifully ornate sangeet outfit than my culinary adventures. “Looks yum!” she exclaimed. “No cap?” (I couldn’t help myself.) (She still doesn’t know what that means.)
BUTTER CHICKEN: recipe adapted from “Mother Butter Chicken” in Nisha Katona’s “Mowgli Cookbook” (p. 112), with pantry ingredients from Rani Soudagar’s Spicez in Georgetown, Washington DC
LEMONY HUMMUS & SPICED CHICKPEAS: with pantry ingredients from Rani Soudagar’s Spicez in Georgetown, Washington DC
RICE:
The important thing, here, is to remember to add one teaspoon of kosher salt per cup of uncooked rice. Garnish with cilantro and flaky sea salt. (Again, this column is not sponsored. But Diamond Crystal, Maldon, I am – and I can’t stress this enough – available. DM to collab.)
NAAN:
Safeway Signature SELECT, $4.99.
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Kane's cuisine: Molecular gastronomy, three ways – Los Angeles Blade
